Nine-turn Intestines Photo: VCG

Recently, chef and popular online content creator Yu Tao, who first rose to fame thanks to his rendition of the traditional dish Nine-turn Intestines (a classic Shandong-style braised pork intestines dish known for its complex flavors and intricate preparation), returned to a culinary reality show with a "2.0 version" of the dish, once again sparking heated online discussion.

Thirteen years ago, Yu stunned judges on a food program with his version of Nine-turn Intestines that preserved the "original flavor" of pork intestines, and the judges' shocked reactions became a widely shared meme across the internet.

Now 32 years old, Yu has reappeared on screen with a healthier image, having lost approximately 45 kilograms and developed a muscular physique. Not only did he introduce to the audience an upgraded version of the dish, but he also ate it on air, drawing fresh attention to traditional Chinese cuisine.

Culinary heritage

Nine-turn Intestines originated during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and is considered one of the most representative dishes of Shandong cuisine. The dish involves a multi-step process of boiling and then frying, resulting in a tender yet chewy texture that delivers a full spectrum of flavors in every bite.

The dish was originally named Braised Pork Intestines, but after a group of scholars likened its complexity and precision to that of an alchemical elixir refined nine times, and since the original restaurant owner was fond of the number nine, it was renamed Nine-turn Intestines, according to Xinhua News Agency.

Because of its complex preparation and rich, intense flavors, Nine-turn Intestines has often been associated with high oil and sugar content. As more young diners shift toward lighter, lower-calorie meals, the dish has at times been viewed as overly heavy or even unhealthy - leading some to see it as outdated in today's dietary culture.

"Pork intestines are naturally rich in protein and essential amino acids. As long as they are thoroughly cleaned and cooked properly, it's entirely possible to preserve their flavor while also meeting health standards," Luo Chaofan from the National Health Commission told the Global Times.

Luo emphasized that when it comes to traditional high-calorie dishes, whether they are healthy depends more on the overall structure of the diet than on simplified labels applied to individual ingredients.

"We encourage the nutritional optimization of traditional dishes, such as reducing sugar and oil, and pairing them with vegetables high in dietary fiber to strike a balance between culinary heritage and modern health needs," he noted.

In recent years, a number of chefs have attempted to "lighten" Nine-turn Intestines structurally. For example, rock sugar is used in place of large amounts of white sugar, aged Zhejiang vinegar can replace darker varieties, and cucumbers or Chinese yams are added to cut the greasiness. As a result, this once-heavy dish has gained popularity again, explained Shandong cuisine chef Hu Fuhua in an interview with China News Service.

Renewed tradition 

As the foremost of China's eight major cuisines, Shandong cuisine has long been known for its complex cooking techniques and rich, layered flavors. The recent resurgence of Nine-turn Intestines is, in essence, a renewed conversation between this traditional culinary school and the contemporary cultural context.

Since the turn of the century, as the pace of life in China gradually accelerated, the culinary industry has entered a fast-food era. Shandong cuisine, known for its labor-intensive handling of ingredients, has struggled to adapt to the commercial demands of quick preparation and rapid service. 

Moreover, its continued reliance on traditional cooking methods - characterized by heavy use of oil, thickened sauces, and bold colors and flavors, stands in stark contrast to modern preferences for light and healthy eating. As a result, Shandong cuisine had been gradually pushed out of the public eye, according to Shangguan News.

Yet in recent years, many chefs and entrepreneurs have begun reflecting about how to bring Shandong cuisine back into contemporary life. Rather than abandoning tradition, they are experimenting with ways to modernize its presentation and delivery while preserving its core identity. 

Many Shandong cuisine classics are actively searching for their "modernized versions: Su Guo (or crispy pot) a mixed stew of meat and vegetables, has been made into ready-made meals for e-commerce platforms, the Hai Er Ba banquet, which is a traditional coastal Chinese seafood banquet featuring an array of fresh, diverse dishes, has been adapted into individual portions for modern weddings, and even the decorative Huabobo (flower-shaped steamed buns) has entered cafés and cultural markets as photogenic seasonal treats.

Li Chunjie, owner of a Shandong cuisine restaurant based in Qingdao, Shandong Province, told the Global Times that these transformations are not about blindly chasing trends or "Westernizing" the food. Rather, they represent an effort to reinterpret tradition through a contemporary lens, while still honoring its techniques and cultural roots.

"Traditional dishes can only truly return to everyday life if they're not just tasty and aesthetically appealing, but also easy to understand and visible," Li said.

According to Li, it's not that young people today dislike traditional dishes; they simply have no access to channels    to learn about them.

"If a dish can only be found on the menus of old restaurants or banquet tables during festivals, it's bound to fade from memory. Only when it makes its way onto food delivery platforms, into short videos, and comes with a clear story about its ingredients, does it have a chance to be truly brought back into use," she noted.

The renewed popularity of Nine-turn Intestines isn't just a nostalgic nod to Shandong cuisine; it's an effort to bridge traditional techniques with the rhythm of modern life. 

When traditional food begins to update its language and broaden its modes of expression, it can shift from being a "remembered culture" to a "daily experience."